Make-up Trends by Alexandre Deslauriers
A curiosity that constantly crosses new horizons is what best describes Alexandre. When he was only 13 years old, he plunged headfirst into photography and the art of makeup and hairdressing. His three passions would later lead him to open his own photo studio. Because he can never have enough strings to his bow, Alexandre also played the role of beauty columnist, both in magazines and on TV. Now dividing his time between Montreal and Toronto, he dedicates 100% of his efforts to makeup and hairstyling.
His quasi-surgical precision – acquired, among other things, through his experience as a photographer – has allowed him to work with Garnier, MAC, Make Up For Ever, Burt’s Bees, Nike, Vogue Italia, India and Elle Canada. Since 2015, he has been sprinkling his magic on the faces of models at Fashion Weeks from New York to Milan, where Gucci has called upon his talent.
The lightness, freedom and optimism of makeup that we saw last season has gradually been replaced by a beauty trend that projects more attitude. This attitude redefines our view of what the terms feminine, sexy, soft, luxurious, strong and glamorous really mean in makeup. Rather than being aspirations, all these attitudes now stem from our personal confidence and reflect a developing sense of self-confidence.
It’s a gender-neutral attitude. Beyond androgyny, makeup this season seems to be about fluidity – makeup that doesn’t force or manipulate the face to be more masculine or feminine, but really makes it stronger and more beautiful in itself. The makeup seen in the Autumn/Winter 2020 shows of the four major Fashion Weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris are all marked by precision in the layout of the makeup and embellishment in the result. It’s a season where detail dominates.
photo credit: Erdem
The celebration of the eyes through controlled ornamentation: these jewel-like details are designed in a very complementary way so that they do not overwhelm the face but rather enhance it. There’s a sophistication and intelligence in these looks that take them away from the festival field and bring them closer to couture. It’s a makeup that simultaneously reminds us that progressive ideas and creativity know
photo credit: Rog & Bone
A Strong Look
While last season we sought to widen and lengthen the gaze, the new black eye vision is a distinctly straight chisel contained on the outer half of the eye. Its shape draws all our attention to the eyes rather than averting it by widening the face. This confirms that the slightest change in density, direction, texture or technique on a line can completely change its personality.
The Monochrome Look
The earth tones: taupe, clay, slate, rust, mustard, terracotta and concrete, are shades that adapt to each skin tone, revealing the intrinsic beauty of those who wear them. Their precise layout and finish give the impression of blending into the skin, as if they were an integral part of the face. Taking colors with an almost dirty look and succeeding in giving a chic finish is an art. The choice of the application and its positioning are crucial to give a contemporary look rather than a return to the 90s. Monochromatic shadows are thus worn as a halo around the eyes. Also, a terracotta shade applied to the cheeks gives a natural sensitivity and
elegance to the look.
photo credit: Missoni
photo credit: Oscar de la Renta
The Antique Modern Lip
Matte lipsticks in shades of rust, oxblood and brick, applied softly on both ends make lips look more chic and accessible, it is easier to identify with. This season, there’s a side more utilitarian and intellectual rather than iconic or glamorous to a bluer red.
Luminosity is the ultimate beautification tool: the art of bringing light to the face is a quest that artists continually explore in different blends of brilliance, glow, satin, iridescence or opalescence. This season, it is the effect of an incredible hydration which amplifies the complexion. It’s that fine, creamy glow that gives the appearance of refined skin. No disco shine or hyperdimensional shine here.
For the rest of the face the details are purified, the eyebrows are brushed without being extremely worked. We correct the skin very slightly by avoiding covering the whole face. Only the hot spots are powdered, leaving the rest free. This judicious juxtaposition of matte and gloss is part of a quest for perfection that respects the natural beauty of a face.